Mauritania..

Ally · 02-07-2006, 03:58 AM

Mauritania is venturing through towns half-blanketed in sand, sipping tea with nomads under their colourful tents, crossing plateaus that resemble the moon and gazing at prehistoric rock drawings and ancient Saharan architecture. One thousand-mile stare coming up.

In a mostly hot and dry climate, December to March on the Atlantic coast provide the cosiest conditions. The mercury usually stops around 30°C (86°F) during these months and the humidity is that little bit lower than the rest of the year so things don't get too stuffy. Moving inland closer to the Sahara simply trades the humidity for higher temperatures and no sea breeze to offset it.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 03:59 AM

It's difficult to imagine now, but Mauritania once had large lakes, rivers and enough vegetation to support an abundance of elephants, rhinos and hippos. There is also evidence of human habitation in the form of arrow heads and rock drawings linked to the ancient Bafour people. This all came to a grinding halt when the Sahara began spreading about 10,000 years ago.

Around the 3rd century the camel was introduced to the Berbers in Morocco. For Mauritania, this significant event meant the arrival of the nomads, who were able to cover longer distances with camels as they traded salt - and later gold and slaves - throughout the Western Sahara. In the 9th and 10th centuries the first empire in West Africa emerged. Known as the Empire of Ghana, it had its capital in southwest Mauritania. The Berbers who had settled in the region were reduced to vassals by their nomadic rulers.

Islam began spreading throughout the region at this time also. One group, the Almoravids, gained control over the Berbers and established a capital in Marrakesh, from where they ruled all of northwest Africa as well as southern Spain. In 1076 they pushed southwards and, with the assistance of Mauritanian Berbers, destroyed the Empire of Ghana. Islam then spread more quickly and freely than before. So vast was the new empire that it effectively split in two with one centre in Morocco and the other ruled by the Berbers of Mauritania. This southern Empire was defeated by the Arabs in 1674; the mix of cultures gave rise to the Moors, and to their stratified caste system.

From the 15th century on, Africa suffered much abuse at the hands of Europeans who were hungry for gold, slaves and other resources. Mauritania escaped relatively unscathed - no de-population due to slavery, no re-orientation of the economy to cash crops, no stripping of precious minerals. Sand, it seems, wasn't a hot commodity. In 1814, France gained the right to control the Mauritanian coast and, after playing one Moorish faction off another, established the colonial territory of Mauritania in 1904.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 03:59 AM

The French were so busy attempting to subjugate the Moors in the north and worrying about colonialism in other parts of the world that they totally missed Mauritania's huge iron ore deposits until just before Mauritania gained independence in 1960. With independence came the declaration of an Islamic republic, the establishment of a new capital and an increase in industrialisation. The iron mines were operated by an overseas consortium, but they paid the local workers handsomely. A two month strike in the late 1960s resulted in a clash involving the army, leaving eight miners dead. This led to the formation in 1973 of a clandestine Marxist union. Facing increased challenges from left-wingers in 1974, President Ould Daddah nationalised the mining company and introduced the nation's own currency, the ouguiya, in place of the CFA (African franc).

Another crisis, involving the breaking up of Spanish Sahara between Morocco and Mauritania, led to the toppling of the government in the late 1970s. Production of iron fell sharply, the army was increased from 1800 troops to 17,000, and acts of sabotage by the Polisario Front (a guerrilla group backed by Algeria, Libya and Cuba supporting an independent Western Sahara) became commonplace. Following a coup in 1978, all Mauritanian claims to Western Sahara were renounced, although the region remains in some dispute to this day. The new regime was unable to kick-start the economy again, and, in 1984, another coup occurred with military support.

With the land struggle as a backdrop, Mauritania also had an ugly internal battle in the late 1980s. After Moorish camels were seen grazing on land owned by Soninké, Africans of Senegalese origin, a fight occurred in which two Soninké were killed. Riots broke out in Senegal, and Mauritanian shops were attacked. In Mauritania the Moors retaliated with a program of rape, genocide, maimings, seizure of land, deportations and Gestapo-style raids. Senegalese nationals were the main target, but Mauritanians of Pulaar descent were fair game as well, and many took refuge in embassies and with the UN. Entire villages were rounded up and deposited in the desert without food or water. Morocco, France, Algeria and Spain sent planes to rescue these now-homeless Mauritanians, who were then 'sent home' to Senegal - a country most had never visited. In total, almost 100,000 people crossed the border to Senegal.

As the government became more xenophobic, closing the Senegal border, aid organisations packed their bags. Only Islamic neighbours continued to assist a Mauritania in its self-imposed exile from the rest of the world. In the early 1990s, with Iraq as its closest ally, Mauritania's government became increasingly extremist, stripping power from and effectively ridding itself of its main rivals, the Black Africans. International condemnation was widespread.

To thwart international criticism, a new constitution permitting multiple parties was established in Mauritania in 1992 (the process has been termed 'controlled democratisation') and the incumbent, Colonel Maaouya Sidi Ahmed Ould Taya, was re-elected, making Mauritania the first member of the Arab League to have elected a head of state by direct universal suffrage.

In December 1997 presidential elections were held with Taya winning comfortably after the election was boycotted by the four main opposition groups who feared massive vote-rigging - the reported scale of Taya's victory was questioned by foreign observers.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 04:00 AM

In 2003, 750,000 people were facing food crisis after consecutive drought. In June that year, there was an attempted coup and two days of violent riots in the capital. Rebels were led by disaffected army chiefs. They managed to take over the presidential palace and several TV and radio stations, but were crushed within a couple of days. It's thought that the war in Iraq partly provoked the uprising - the government had arrested numerous suspected Islamic extremists a couple of months before, and this served as a trigger. Other factors were discontent over Mauritanian relations with Israel and the US, and the suffering as a result of the famine. Perhaps the ongoing offshore oil exploration (by foreigners, of course) will one day produce a crutch for Mauritania's economy.

Repatriation of exiled black Mauritanians haunted the government. Although attacks on this minority largely ceased, they continued to struggle getting jobs, identity cards, loans and their land back. In September 2004, the government weathered another coup attempt, the third in just 15 months.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 04:00 AM

Regular flights to Nouakchott from Paris are available. You can also fly from Casablanca and Algiers a couple of times a week, as well as catch flights from Dakar, Bamako, Banjul and Abidjan. Air tickets are much cheaper in Mauritania than the rest of Africa, so never purchase return tickets from other countries; buy two one-way tickets instead.

Border disputes, although calmer now than in recent years, still occur. The adventurous might consider the following options. Bush taxis from Senegal can take you as far as the border crossing to Rosso, where a ferry connects to more taxis on the Mauritanian side. From Dakar the trip takes up to 12 hours. The Morocco convoy days are over, and there are buses between Dakhla and Nouâdhibou (twice weekly, 12 to 16 hours). Coming from the north, it's easy to hitch a ride with other travellers from a Dakhla campement (guesthouse) - people usually charge 20.00 to 40.00 per person. It's a challenging drive through the desert, and drivers are usually happy to take people along to cover the costs of a guide and to help with digging the vehicle out of the sand. The route is an adventure - a first taste of the desert, like a scene from Mad Max, scattered with car wrecks and people appearing from nowhere. There's less traffic from south to north, but it's possible to get a lift this way too. You could also club together with other travellers and arrange a bush taxi for the journey. It is possible to travel to Mali in your vehicle or via sporadic public transport. The 1100km (680 mi) route from Nouakchott to Nema is asphalted all the way. The journey to Bamako can be done in three days, but that's pushing it. Although the main crossing point to Mali has been closed for most of the decade, it should be possible to cross at other points, such as south of Kiffa. Consult with officials from either country before attempting this journey.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 04:01 AM

Air Mauritanie runs regular internal flights to Nouâdhibou, Atâr, Néma and several other towns. Book early. Bush taxis and trucks ply all the major routes also, but the roads are often bad and the trips slow and long. There is a train in Mauritania, too, though few travellers - even the most daring ones - choose to take it. It runs from Nouâdhibou to Zouérat, carrying iron ore and uncomfortable passengers. The trip is mostly at night and surprisingly cold, but passengers claim it's pretty safe.

Driving is possible through some of Mauritania, but should never be attempted alone, and hardly ever without a guide. Many tar roads have been covered by the relentless sands of time. A knowledge of deserts, winds and even tides is required, making it an unattractive option for many travellers. Hire cars are ridiculously expensive, but are available in Nouakchott if you insist.

(All information courtesy of Lonely Planet)

Ally · 02-14-2006, 06:49 AM

Images of Mauritania...