Gabon..

Ally · 02-07-2006, 07:28 AM

With a vast sprawl of virgin rainforests and teeming wildlife, Gabon is The Ghost Who Walks territory. Its major cities, however, are a sophisticated bustle of glitz, lights, and casinos. Gabon offers a little of everything to just about everyone.

Gabon is an average Joe as far as equatorial climates go - hot, humid and cloudy. Throughout the year temperatures hover around the 30°C (86°F) mark and rarely drop below 20°C (68°F). June to August provides slighly cooler days and some respite from the rain.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 07:29 AM

There are only two things that appear certain about Gabon: the first is that its precolonial history is shrouded in uncertainty; and the second is that whatever its history, it has come a long way in a relatively short period of time. Educated guesses put Pygmies as the original inhabitants but they were quickly displaced in the 16th and 18th centuries by the Fang, who migrated south from Cameroon and Equatorial Guinea. Small family units of Pygmies now only survive in the more remote parts of the country.

Contact with Europeans, starting with the arrival of the Portuguese in 1472, set a train of events in motion that had a profound effect on tribal social structures. The Portuguese largely ignored the area, preferring to base their activities on the nearby islands of Bioko and São Tomé. However, British, Dutch and French ships called in along the coast regularly to trade for slaves, ivory and precious tropical woods. The capital, Libreville, was established as a settlement for freed slaves in 1849, and quickly became a mecca for every God-fearing missionary in the Western world. It represented an unlimited source of unshriven pagan souls and theological brownie points for the saving thereof. In 1904, the capital of the Congo was transferred from Libreville to Brazzaville in the Congo, and six years later Gabon became a French colony in French Equatorial Africa.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 07:30 AM

In 1912, Albert Schweitzer, missionary-with-a-difference, ex-theologian, and physician, set off for Gabon, en famille, eventually setting up a hospital in Lambaréné. The original hospital operated out of a converted chicken coop, but over the years grew into a multicomplex health centre. Schweitzer was to maintain close ties with the hospital until his death at 90. Some of his more radical moves included the relaxing of hygiene standards so that families of patients could prepare food on site for their relatives. Schweitzer eventually won the Nobel Peace Prize for his work in Gabon.

During the early years of the 20th century, when colonization was still seen as an economic rather than a social or ethical issue, French private companies exploited Gabon by forcing Africans to work for them. Having only recently thrown off the shackles of slavery, the Gabonese were understandably bent out of shape by this new form of indentured slavery and, like other Africans in French Equatorial Africa, vented their anger in periodic revolts. Each successive revolt was quelled, and by the time a new broom swept these old regimes out of the country the companies had destroyed the forests, used up most of the other natural resources and sent the country into an economic slump that lasted until after WWI.

In 1960, Leo M'Ba was elected as the first president of the new republic of Gabon and survived a mid-60s coup to remain in office until his death from natural causes in 1967. This was no mean feat given that presidents of other African countries tend to be elected at the pull of a trigger and deposed in much the same way. His successor, the diminutive Albert-Bernard Bongo, made Gabon a one-party state and then converted to Islam, becoming El Hadj Omar Bongo. His appointment fortuitously coincided with the processing of manganese and uranium deposits and a bullish run on oil prices. This ushered in the 'Gabonese Miracle', a decade of untold wealth, champagne and caviar lifestyles, and a spendthrift's mentality. In the year that oil prices peaked, Gabon hosted a summit for the Organisation of African Unity to the staggering tune of 1000000000.00.

When oil prices plummeted in the early 80s, so did Gabon's financial standing. Notwithstanding the drastic change in Gabon's fortune, Bongo retained presidential office through a strategy of tough social measures, defensive boundaries, national insularity, tough-mindedness, lucrative ministerial posts for the politically faithful, and a phalanx of Moroccan bodyguards, European mercenaries and French political and military advisors. It's a strategy that worked. Despite civil unrest in 1990 that led to the legalisation of political parties for the purpose of free elections, Bongo continued to defeat other candidates, most recently in 1998 for another 7-year term. He has been in office for over thirty years, a minor miracle in the turbulent atmosphere of African politics.

While Gabon continues to grapple with such issues as substandard health care and schools, Bongo has allegedly used his country's oil riches to purchase large amounts of real estate in Paris. The citizens of Gabon, however, continue to show strong support for their leader, at least in theory. In practice, the elections of December 2001 were boycotted by the opposition on account of alleged irregularities by the National Election Commission.

In July 2003, President Bongo - in power since 1967 - had parliament alter the constitution to allow him to run for president as many times as he wishes.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 07:30 AM

Outside of Africa, travellers from Europe have the best air access to Gabon. There are direct flights to Libreville from Brussels, Paris, Rome, Madrid and Geneva. Most travellers consider Air Gabon to be one of the three or four best African airlines serving central and west Africa. There is no departure tax.

You can take the train from Brazzaville to Mbinda, make the hop to Franceville via a series of bush taxis, then take the Transgabonais to Libreville; the total trip should take a minimum of six days. The other border crossing between Gabon and the Congo involves a string of trucks and bush taxis running from Loubomo, Congo, through Doussala to N'Dendé; it's about two days from N'Dendé to Libreville. The stretch between Loubomo and Brazzaville is normally done by train and takes about six days.

Travelling by bush taxis and minibuses between Youndé, Cameroon, and Libreville takes about three days. The crossing is between Bitam and Ambam. Coming from Cameroon, you absolutely must get an entry stamp in Bitam from immigration. The standard fine for infractions is over 60.00.

The Libreville-Bata (Equatorial Guinea) route is via the town of Cocobeach, where (if you're going north) you should spend the night, as accommodation is a problem until you get to Mbini or Bata. The leg between Libreville and Cocobeach is 2.5 hours by pick-up. Getting between Cocobeach and Acalayong involves taking a pirogue (motorised dugout canoe) across the Estuaire du Muni. The pirogues leave when full and take about four and a half hours to cross. You'll be charged an 'exit fee' of around 10.00 at Cocobeach and a similar 'entry fee' at Cogo, but the latter fee is negotiable. There are pick-ups from Acalayong to Mbini and there are others from there to Bata.

There are occasional freight boats that ply between Libreville and Douala that may take passengers. Fares are negotiable, but don't expect any comforts and bring your own food and drink. Enquire at Port Môle (the old port) in Libreville about the possibility. The Solmar II sails between Libreville and São Tomé on a fairly regular schedule; the one-way fare is under 100.00.

Ally · 02-07-2006, 07:31 AM

The fastest way to get around is via Air Gabon, which flies between Libreville and Lambaréné, Port-Gentil, Franceville and other major towns. The frequency varies from daily to three times a week.

The Transgabonais train runs four times a week between Owendo (a few kilometres south of Libreville) and Franceville via Booué and Lastoursville, and is very efficient and punctual. Libreville's railway station is in Owendo, about 10km (6mi) south of the city centre. Most stations along the route are way out of town, and taxis may charge outrageous prices. Unfortunately, there is often no alternative.

Minibuses are more popular than bush taxis, but both are very expensive and service varies greatly from one vehicle (and one trip) to another. Minibuses go in all directions, but the number of people travelling is relatively small, so don't expect much choice of vehicle, even from Libreville. And, when travelling between Libreville and Franceville, 2nd class on the train is as cheap as a minibus.

During the rainy season, bush taxis can be rather dangerous as the roads become very slippery. Moreover, some of the drivers are maniacs, and stopping several times along the way for a drink is a common practice. Most drivers are sober, but if yours gets drunk, catch the next car.

There are several boats that ply between Libreville and Port-Gentil almost every day. The fastest takes about four hours one way; slower boats take from five to eight hours. Once or twice a week, there are boats plying the Ogooué River between Port-Gentil and Lambaréné. The fastest takes about ten hours, though there are some that take a day or more and make several stops along the way; some go on to Ndjolé.

Driving is the least desirable way to get around Gabon. There are very few paved roads, and despite being well-maintained the dirt roads are alternatively slippery or sticky during the long rainy season. Come prepared for all eventualities (you'll want a strong rope or cable). The Libreville-Lambaréné road is paved for two-thirds of the distance. You cannot drive from Libreville to Port-Gentil. There are several major car rental agencies in Libreville; rates are astronomical. You'll need an International Driver's Licence; driving is done on the right.

(All information courtesy of Lonely Planet)

Ally · 02-14-2006, 06:31 AM

Images of Gabon...